Trading Snow for Stars and Sea Turtles

Why I Spend Every January on a Costa Rican Beach

By Harvey Trop

For some people, there’s nothing better than a tropical beach vacation. The broad expanse of sand and surf, along with a pleasant breeze—especially appealing during the cold, rainy, or snowy months in the U.S. and Canada—can be irresistible. Through the Costa Rican Sea Turtles expedition, I’ve discovered an even more rewarding way to experience it: walking a quiet beach at night under the stars, accompanied only by a biologist and the sound of lapping waves, as we search for nesting sea turtles. For the last four years, I’ve spent part of January doing just that.

 

Two people walk along a reflective, wet beach at low tide under a soft blue and orange sky, with a large rocky outcrop in the distance and forested shoreline to the left. (C) Harvey Trop
A wide, sandy beach stretches along the coastline bordered by dense green forest, with distant cliffs and a blue sky dotted with clouds overhead. (C) Harvey Trop
A secluded tropical beach with gentle waves, forested hills, and driftwood scattered along the sand, as a small group of people walks near the water’s edge. (C) Harvey Trop

 

WHERE THE TURTLES NEST

Along several beaches in northwestern Costa Rica, three different species of sea turtles’ nest from October through March. Certain beaches are preferred by some species over others. One of the monitored beaches, Playa Cabuyal, is frequented by green sea turtles. Another site, Las Baulas National Park, consists of two adjoining beaches—Playa Grande and Playa Ventanas. In the second half of the 20th century, thousands of leatherback turtles (the largest sea turtle species) nested on these beaches. However, overharvesting of their eggs for use in baked goods caused a dramatic population decline. Today, perhaps only five leatherbacks nest in a given season. The park was established to protect this vital nesting area, now also used by green and olive ridley sea turtles.

NIGHT WALKS AND TURTLE TRACKING

During night walks, which can last between four and six hours depending on the time of high tide, you walk up and down the beach, pausing at each end to scan the surf line for a dark shape or to spot tracks left in the sand. Over time, you learn to identify the turtle species by the shape and size of the tracks. With a bit of luck, you’ll find a turtle digging her nesting pit. Once the pit is complete, she digs a nesting chamber and lays her eggs before covering it back up. Volunteers assist the biologist by counting the eggs and collecting dimensional data on the turtle. Either a metal tag or an internal RFID chip is used for identification; if neither is found, the turtle is tagged for future monitoring. You’ll also help mark the nest location on the beach.

RELOCATING NESTS FOR SAFETY

In some cases—especially earlier in the season at Playa Grande—nests are relocated to a protected nursery plot near the field station. Olive ridley nests, which are shallow and more vulnerable to raccoon predation, may also be moved. If a turtle nests in a high-traffic area, the eggs are sometimes relocated for safety. At Playa Cabuyal, only nests laid below the high tide line are moved, and just higher up on the beach.

 

Two volunteers kneel on the beach with red containers covered by cloth, carefully preparing to release baby sea turtles as onlookers stand nearby. (C) Harvey Trop
A gloved hand gently places baby sea turtles on the sandy beach during a release effort, with a red container in the background. (C) Harvey Trop
Group of baby sea turtles crawling across the sand toward the ocean shortly after hatching. (C) Harvey Trop

 

WITNESSING THE HATCHLINGS

Thanks to the nursery, it’s sometimes possible to witness hatchlings emerge from the nest. Usually around sunset, they are released on the beach. Some head purposefully toward the surf, while others meander a bit before finding their way. Our presence can help protect the hatchlings, as predators like shorebirds are less likely to approach while people are nearby. It’s estimated that only one in a thousand hatchlings will survive to adulthood, so giving them even a small advantage can make a difference.

Our presence can help the hatchlings, as potential predators, such as shore birds, are less likely to grab them. It is estimated that only one out of a thousand hatchlings will survive to adulthood, so giving them an extra break may just help their survival.

 

A large group of people gather at the shoreline during sunset to observe baby sea turtles making their way to the ocean. (C) Harvey Trop
A lone sea turtle hatchling makes its way across the wet sand toward the ocean under a warm, golden sunset. (C) Harvey Trop
A bucket filled with dozens of red-lit baby sea turtles ready for release. (C) Harvey Trop

 

BONUS: TAGGING SEA TURTLES BY BOAT

In the past two years, we’ve enjoyed an added bonus: a day boat trip in the northwestern tip of Costa Rica’s Guanacaste Province. There, we help scientists use turtle-safe nets to temporarily capture, measure, and tag sea turtles in the bay.

 

Researchers on a boat catch a large sea turtle entangled in fishing net. (C) Harvey Trop
Researchers measure the shell of a sea turtle on a boat while another person captures the moment with a smartphone. (C) Harvey Trop
A researcher on a boat holds up a small sea turtle suspended from a scale for weighing, with green water in the background. (C) Harvey Trop

 

MORE WILDLIFE WONDERS

There’s also plenty of other wildlife to see in Costa Rica—birds, howler monkeys, iguanas, and crocodiles among them.

 

A black spiny-tailed iguana rests on sunlit rocks surrounded by green grass in a forest clearing. (C) Harvey Trop
A yellow and gray bird perched on the tip of a bare branch against a cloudy sky. (C) Harvey Trop
A black howler monkey lounges on a tree branch, partially hidden among vibrant green leaves. (C) Harvey Trop

 

WHY I KEEP COMING BACK

I keep coming back for many reasons, but watching the hatchlings head for the sea is definitely one of the highlights. I also feel like I’m making a difference while having a good time, which is the essence of an ÃÀ¼§ÉçÇø expedition.

 

 

Ready to Trade Your Typical Vacation for Sea Turtles and Stars?

If Harvey’s story has you dreaming of starry nights, sandy beaches, and the unforgettable sight of sea turtle hatchlings making their way to the ocean, why not experience it for yourself?

Join Costa Rican Sea Turtles and help protect these incredible creatures—or browse all expeditions to find your perfect adventure in the name of science.

 

Learn more about Costa Rican Sea Turtles.

 

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